How to improve finger strength for climbing reddit. You strengthen your finger flexors when you climb, so when you’re not climbing, work on your extensors. If someone asks me specifically how to improve their grip for bjj, telling them to deadlift is bad advice. Apr 27, 2025 · In this article we are going to talk about some the best ways to build climbing strength and how to train grip strength inside and outside of your local climbing gym. My fingers were strong as fuck though. Nov 9, 2022 · Managing finger strength training as a climber can be confusing, what to do what not to do? In this blog we clear the fog and keep it simple. This may or may not help but climbing requires a lot of finger/hand/forearm strength. 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? This will increase fore arm strength and wrist stability. Here are tips for hangboarding your way to finger strength. Timestamps:0:00 Introduction1:20 Energy system lesson2:05 Hangboard8:58 Spray wall13:00 Campus board17:32 How to implement each method yourselfToday we're ta It takes between 1 and 2 years to build enough finger strength to not injure them while climbing a lot and hard. Sure maybe low volume hangboard could be beneficial and further improve your finger strength but the risk of overdue / training incorrectly isn't near as beneficial as just climbing more and learn how to effectively use it. It's easier to safely improve technique than finger strength at this point in your climbing and will pay off more down the road. I was a rock climbing for 5 years and while my grip was better than average, I wasn’t spectacular at holding onto deadlifts. There’s plenty of finger extensor trainers available for cheap. Anecdotally, I have a buddy who can three finger drag 6 mil all daybut he sucks at slopers because his shoulders are weak. The crux of the "climbing as primarily a strength sport" idea is that most people can acquire the climbing skill over enough time to climb hard (lets say V-double digit) but many fewer people will be able to build that appropriate amount of elite finger and hand strength. Aside from that, a very cheap option is to buy a 3/4 in strip of wood, and nail/screw it onto another piece of wood (Porch rafter, over a door way, under the stairs, etc). Reddit's rock climbing training community. Mar 26, 2025 · Every climber wants stronger fingers, but few really know how to power up. r/griptraining is a super knowledgable community and has a section in the sidebar specifically addressing grip training for climbing. You aren't limited by finer strength. Your grip strength is determined by forearm strength and the tendons in your fingers, hands and wrists. They are very different types of gripping. Check it out! Reddit's rock climbing training community. Take it easy though, tendons are easily damaged. Hangboards don't need 10 different pocket combinations to work. Because sloper strength is so complex- compared to crimp strength at least- I personally just like climbing a lot of sloper climbs to improve. Jan 26, 2024 · Regularly challenging your fingers, gradually increasing difficulty, and addressing both strengths and weaknesses will contribute to significant improvements in your finger strength for climbing. You could look up different finger routines specific to climbers and see if that would help. . Climbing multiple times a week does wonders for finger strength if you focus on working problems that require a lot of finger strength. You are limited by poor technique which puts a lot more load on your fingers than is necessary. These first years are good to practice technique, improve general body strength and your mind while leading, but I'd avoid doing a lot of fingerboard training or too many crimpy routes. What is an efficient way to train finger strength for a climbing beginner who has a decent amount of pulling strength from Callisthenics (1. I think this is likely true from a statistical sense. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Also notice how the excersises work the antagonistic (opposing) muscles in your hands and forearms, this helps to prevent repetitive strain injuries. yygrnrr pgzzi nivs yql zfffqu cgyapw lwy jcvbmu vcxs kgcv